Good Bad Old Times

Georgia inspire beetloaves*.

Georgian cuisine in Soviet Union was always viewed as something like French cooking in Western Europe. Or perhaps more like Tuskan leaning Italian actually. Sophisticated, exquisite, generous. Both hugely desired and, well, envied. I find it quite curious that these

Good Bad Old Times

Marrow caviar ‘as we remember it’.

This ‘caviar’ used to be amongst the only products always available in the good old days of Soviet Union. So more-ish nevertheless. When I was little I could never understand why the mixture is dark red/brown! Long stewing, addition of

Good Bad Old Times

*That* Borsch-in-a-pie.

There is a little story about the birth of this pie – now, frankly, legendary (says Katrina!) on all Russian Revels events. When Karina’s mum used to make Borscht (or borsch?? ahh)  she first sautéed the beetroot with the vegetables

Good Bad Old Times

White stuff dare – tvorog in London. Finally.

After almost 16 years of living in this country I have finally found it. The light, sweet, intoxicating white stuff that makes me – and many a Russian – smile dreamily and make our eyes go all misty with memories

Good Bad Old Times

Woosy faces, food gratis and gooseberry dressing.

Until the age of 10 I lived in what many dreamily how recall as the Soviet courtyard. I have most vivid recollections of lazit za kryzhovnikom – sort of climbing into and around gooseberry bushes, lazily picking them up, plonking them into my mouth, chatting to girlfriends.

Good Bad Old Times

As battle continues – Cutlets a la Kiev.

Is it worrisome or more comforting to write about food ‘a la Kiev’ today, when the streets of the Ukrainian capital are flooded with events and people seemingly so removed from the joys of a full belly? Food – and

Good Bad Old Times

Olivier salad, the original dirty, damn good dish.

A pile of boiled potatoes in skins, boiled carrots – not a very exciting bunch at first glance, a selection of cans and jars… Then you start peeling, cubing, slicing, chopping… Cubes of pale potatoes in a bowl are now

Good Bad Old Times

Milky sausages from LavkaLavka – not from toilet paper

My fondest memories of breakfast with my mother was when she would lightly boil a couple of molochnye sosiski (milky sausages) for me…

Good Bad Old Times

Ryazhenka, or Russian custard for those on a diet

‘I am going on a kefir diet’ I recall my mum saying on numerous occasions when I was growing up, in her Goethe-hell-like attempts to become more svelte. Needless to say it is the Boxing day today and so I’m

Good Bad Old Times

On tongue relish and why size matters

There is certainly something vaguely titillating about being able to utter – Russian tongues, anyone? – when lowering yourself to a hungry diner. I then add – Organic, salt beef in fact, over which I’ve been labouring for the last